Buying guide
There is one number that decides whether a charger is right, and it is not the port count. Start from the brick your laptop shipped with: that wattage is the floor, not the target.
| What you are charging | Stock charger | Buy at least | What actually happens |
|---|---|---|---|
| Phone | 20–30W | 30W | Phones cap out around here. A 100W charger does not charge a phone any faster than a 30W one. |
| Tablet / iPad | 20–30W | 30W | Same ceiling as a phone. Wattage beyond this is only useful for the other ports. |
| 13-inch ultrabook, MacBook Air | 30–45W | 45W or more | 30W will charge it, but slowly, and it can lose ground while you work. |
| 14–16-inch pro laptop | 65–100W | 100W | This is where a 65W charger starts to disappoint: fine while idle, falling behind while compiling or rendering. |
| Gaming laptop / mobile workstation | 120–330W | Keep the original barrel charger | USB-C cannot replace these. Even at the spec ceiling it will not sustain a discrete GPU under load. |
A “65W two-port” charger does not give 65W to each port. Plug in a phone and the laptop typically drops to around 45W. If you need full speed for the laptop, size the charger for everything you will plug in at once — or leave the second port empty.
USB Power Delivery topped out at 100W for years. PD 3.1 raised it to 240W, but both the charger and the cable have to support it — an ordinary USB-C cable will hold you at 60W no matter what the charger can supply.
Multiply the mAh by the cell voltage (3.6–3.7V) and divide by 1,000. A 20,000mAh bank is about 74Wh and travels fine; a 27,000mAh bank is close to the 100Wh limit most airlines apply without prior approval.
Gallium nitride lets a charger run cooler and smaller at the same wattage. It is a real benefit for a travel bag. It does not make 45W behave like 100W.
Every charger review lists the wattage the manufacturer states, and flags where they do not state it at all.